Last Friday was much too wet for PE outside while this Friday was much too hot. SO, P.E. often takes the form of a game in the classroom. The current rage at Salapwuk is a variety of games involving spinning an empty Heineken bottle. In on version, students who are chosen by the fateful spin act out an animal and the others guess. Another version--the students favorite--is truth or dare, but the questions from what I can glean with my limited Pohnpeien abilities are of a fairly innocent sort and the dares almost always involve singing and dancing, the latter of which involves much sawying og the hips for both boys and girls in the traditional style of dance akin to the hula. My favorite version is where the chosen person becomes a sort of leader and everyone else must imitate them. More fun dance moves ensue or else the shy student giggles and hides behind her hands--and everyone else imitates her shyness, causing more giggles.
I was rather pleased with my exhibition of "the funky chicken" which all my students had to mimic, and then applauded for me.
Some of you have asked what you can send me for Christmas, and what I'd really love is for these students to have some good books in their library! New or used, anything is better than the limited selection they have, from most of which termites have feasted. (I'm also looking for ideas on how to better protect books in a school with screens and no windows and a very wet climate - ideas?) The most useful books are ones that are relevant to Pohnpeien culture--of which there are admittedly very few! However, here is a description of topics that micht be helpful and a list of Pohnpeien "things":
Family is central to the Pohnpeien life, and this includes grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. Food is next important. Every time someone goes by your house, you should invite them to eat. Everything occurs over a meal or sakau--known as kava in other parts of the world.
I find fairytales and folktales--particularly those set near the sea--to transcend culture and be relevant. My students have also been really excited by books about dragons and knights on horses rescuing princesses lately. Who isn't, really?
I'm primarily interested in picture books with a second - fourth grade reading level and low level novels--these might be trickier to select--that do not assume a knowledge of the American lifestyle. I'd love them to learn about America and other countries through books, but just keep in mind that these kids have never seen a city, a building taller than three or four stories, ridden a train, heard of a zoo, or experienced a change of seasons.
Some lists relevant to Pohnpei:
Things kids do:
Baseball
Volleyball
Basketball
Dancing & Singing
Swimming in the River
Track & Field
Farming
Fishing
Environmentalism
Health and Nutrition
Places:
The ocean
The jungle
Islands
Animals:
Fish
Dogs
Cats
Pigs
Goats
Deer
Caribou
Chickens/Roosters
Lizards
Geckos
Spiders
Ants
Birds
Owls
Foods:
Coconut
Breadfruit
Banana
Taro
Yam
Mango
Lime
Pumpkin
Cumcuber
Pandanus
Pineapple
Carrot
Apple
Tapioca
Papaya
Sugar Cane
Rice
Fish
Chicken
Pig
Dog
Thanks to all for your interest in Salapwuk!
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Introducing...The Lovely Salapwuk
For weeks I tried to imagine what my new home would be like, to no avail. The minute I saw it, I knew it was beyond my imagination.
But first, my swearing in: it was a big ceremony with all of our host families, old and new, a representative from the Department of Education, and the Peace Corps staff in Pohnpei. Speeches were given to thank the volunteers-to-be in advance for their service. I got to give a speech on behalf of the volunteers, thanking our host families and training staff- in Pohnpeien!
We took our oath of service, everyone wanted to shake our hands, and then we finished up the festivities by presenting a local dance- complete with sticks and grass skirts. Don't worry, it was caught on video!
And before I knew it I was whisked away by my new host family up into the mountains of Kitti Municipality. The paved road gave way to gravel, the gravel to dirt, the dirk to thick mud and I found myself in the most remote and beautiful of jungles I had ever been to. We passed the school where I will teach, the schoolyard has an ocean view! Near the school we reached a point where the car could go no further. We unloaded my bags and my host father went to get his caribou. The rest of my first day in the village of Salapwuk was surreal: seeing my host father perched atop the cart (with no wheels) made of sticks, bumping along behind the caribou, riding down the muddy, deeply rutted path to my new home, arriving at my new home surrounded by so much beauty: green everywhere, jungle flowers, tall coconut trees, the blue sky above and the ocean beyond. Pretty idyllic. And so quiet. There are just four of us living here: my host parents, my host father's brother and myself. It is so entirely different from busy urban life. But I think I will be very happy here!
Read more about it here.
Actually, the school building itself is new since this picture was taken. But thanks, Lindsay for posting it! I will send a new picture soon!
A picture with my first host family (front) and my new host parents (back), taken on the day of my swearing-in.
My new host family and their water buffalo mud sledge (for heavy loads, such as my suitcase and boxes of books!)
The nahs in my new house
But first, my swearing in: it was a big ceremony with all of our host families, old and new, a representative from the Department of Education, and the Peace Corps staff in Pohnpei. Speeches were given to thank the volunteers-to-be in advance for their service. I got to give a speech on behalf of the volunteers, thanking our host families and training staff- in Pohnpeien!
We took our oath of service, everyone wanted to shake our hands, and then we finished up the festivities by presenting a local dance- complete with sticks and grass skirts. Don't worry, it was caught on video!
And before I knew it I was whisked away by my new host family up into the mountains of Kitti Municipality. The paved road gave way to gravel, the gravel to dirt, the dirk to thick mud and I found myself in the most remote and beautiful of jungles I had ever been to. We passed the school where I will teach, the schoolyard has an ocean view! Near the school we reached a point where the car could go no further. We unloaded my bags and my host father went to get his caribou. The rest of my first day in the village of Salapwuk was surreal: seeing my host father perched atop the cart (with no wheels) made of sticks, bumping along behind the caribou, riding down the muddy, deeply rutted path to my new home, arriving at my new home surrounded by so much beauty: green everywhere, jungle flowers, tall coconut trees, the blue sky above and the ocean beyond. Pretty idyllic. And so quiet. There are just four of us living here: my host parents, my host father's brother and myself. It is so entirely different from busy urban life. But I think I will be very happy here!
Read more about it here. Actually, the school building itself is new since this picture was taken. But thanks, Lindsay for posting it! I will send a new picture soon!
A picture with my first host family (front) and my new host parents (back), taken on the day of my swearing-in.
My new host family and their water buffalo mud sledge (for heavy loads, such as my suitcase and boxes of books!)
The nahs in my new house Wednesday, October 21, 2009
NOTES FROM A [VERY] SMALL ISLAND (with all due respect to Mr. Bryson)
First of all, let me apologize to my readers for such a long absence: that is the way of the interwebs of Micronesia: sometimes you have it and sometimes you don't, though you try to access it day in and day out for a week.
The following are just a few random observations and things you should know should you ever find yourself on a Pacific Island:
TRANSPORTATION
There is one road along the 60 mile circumference of Pohnpei (for those of you who are mathematicians, that means the island is less than 20 miles in diameter, or the distance from Naperville to Oak Park--shout out to the Schattauers!)
Owning a car is a status symbol; the type or condition of the car does not really matter--it may not even run, but if it's sitting out in your yard, well, that's better than not having one at all.
Needless to say, Pohnpei is a walking society. But if you place a Pohnpeinen in the middle of the Loop, you will probably think they are standing still. They are not. They are walking, but very slowly. This may be due to the fact that all Pohnpeiens function on "island time." It may be due to the fact that it is always hot here and you would walk slowly, too if you lived in constant 85 degree weather with plenty of humidity. Seriously, Pohnpeiens have never heard of seasons, unless we're talking about Breadfruit Season (April-Sept.) and Yam Season (Sept.-March). There is no such thing as a rainy season, a cool season, or any other kind of weather-related season. So long as you like slightly warmer than comfortable weather with plenty of rain (which fortunately I do!) you'll love Pohnpei.
But I digress. Back to transportation: so in Pohnpei, you walk (slowly) if you don't have a car; but if you do have a car, you drive it everywhere, including a few yards down the road. There are just a few rules of the road-a very few- to be aware of when traveling in Pohnpei.
When walking, walk on the left side of the road. I don't know why because drivers drive on the right and most cars are Japanese-made with the steering wheel on the right. FSM relects a curoius mixture of all the different countries which have previously occupied it.
If you find yourself on a bus (you're probably either a Pohnpeien schoolchild or a Peace Corps Volunteer because there are no public buses), it is wise to place yourself on an aisle towards the middle--or back if you like roller coasters. This is because if you do sit near a window, you are very likely to get whipped by branches as the bus hurtles along narrow, hilly roads. And if you sit on an aisle towards the back you can both avoid having to duck every few feet and enjoy watching your fellow volunteers' heads pop up and down with each smack of a branch from the numerous trees growing over the sides of the road.
Using Local Resources
While the dense jungle does sometimes limit road travel, it provides an abundance of material for immediate use. Forget your woven fan on a hot Sunday morning in an airless church? No problem; grab a dried leaf from the yard outside. Leaf fans come in a variety of sizes from 3" all the way up to 3' (the latter, however is a little unwieldy for church). Or, that beautiful blue sky that led you to think you could leave your umbrella at home today has suddenly turned gray and a downpour is imminent? Again, no problem; grab a 3' long banana tree leaf. It will keep you as dry as an umbrella, which admittedly isn't very. I recently learned in language training the many ways to discuss dry clothing . . .
Birthdays/Fundraisers
Birthday celebrations are a Western introduction into the Micronesian culture. There isn't even a word in Pohnpeien for the anniversary of one's birth. "Happy Birthday" is what is said and understood, even if the listener speaks no English.
Besides the universal party with lots of delicious food, Pohnpeiens have adapted another Western tradition to celebrate birthdays which I think is very creative: the Birthday Fundraiser. Everyone who wants to participate meets at one of the markets and many people bring items to contribute to the lots: a broom, a case of ramen, an assorted collection of local skirts, a live crab tied to a branch, banana tree saplings, yams, a canoe. These items are then distributed into random, but generally equal-value groups, and tickets are sold for each group, one at a time until some indeterminate point--presumably when the caller has decided enough money has been raised--a ticket is drawn, and well, you know how a raffle works. I got some practice with my Pohnpeien numbers--ehu-zero-waluh-riau-limau-siluh (1-0-8-2-5-3), and while we did not win a canoe, my host mother and I did walk away with a nice collection of colorful skirts!
Nothing Lasts
I would like to comment on the incredible transience of things in the jungle. Everything Pohnpeien is made with the understanding that it will soon be tossed aside to return to nature: palm frond woven baskets, thatched-roof houses, shell tools. No amount of Western ingenuity can save material things from being reclaimed bu the jungle humidity: cars rust, stop working, and become a new home for plant and animal life; humidity creeps into houses and paint peels, walls turn green; electronics are lucky to last a year in this, one of the wettest places on Earth. Micronesian culture is preserved only by word of mouth. Material possessions do not linger. If an anthropologist wished to specialize in Micronesian culture (which some do; I met one today!) he or she would find a dearth of physical evidence. Only the jungle lives on.
Final Note to Costumers: Micronesia not for the weak-hearted seamstress
I was so excited to find that my host mother loves to sew and has a sewing machine. And so I set out to make myself a local-style wardrobe. To my unending disappointment and constant chagrin, however, a local wardrobe means primarily polyester. In fact, I'd be hard-pressed to find a material with less than 60% poly anywhere on the island. You might well ask, "Why in such a hot and humid climate would the Pohnpeiens choose a fabric infamous for its lack of breathability?" The answer is this: it dries faster, and as mentioned previously, dry clothing is a must here. But that doesn't make the fact that the clothes I'm wearing are 75% not-fabric hurt me inside--and outside--any less. Sundays are even more fun: Pohnpeien women take out their Sunday best: sparkly poly trimmed with plastic beads! The type of things you might find in a box labeled "cheap glitz" in the CST costume shop. Beauty is clearly in the eye of the beholder.
The following are just a few random observations and things you should know should you ever find yourself on a Pacific Island:
TRANSPORTATION
There is one road along the 60 mile circumference of Pohnpei (for those of you who are mathematicians, that means the island is less than 20 miles in diameter, or the distance from Naperville to Oak Park--shout out to the Schattauers!)
Owning a car is a status symbol; the type or condition of the car does not really matter--it may not even run, but if it's sitting out in your yard, well, that's better than not having one at all.
Needless to say, Pohnpei is a walking society. But if you place a Pohnpeinen in the middle of the Loop, you will probably think they are standing still. They are not. They are walking, but very slowly. This may be due to the fact that all Pohnpeiens function on "island time." It may be due to the fact that it is always hot here and you would walk slowly, too if you lived in constant 85 degree weather with plenty of humidity. Seriously, Pohnpeiens have never heard of seasons, unless we're talking about Breadfruit Season (April-Sept.) and Yam Season (Sept.-March). There is no such thing as a rainy season, a cool season, or any other kind of weather-related season. So long as you like slightly warmer than comfortable weather with plenty of rain (which fortunately I do!) you'll love Pohnpei.
But I digress. Back to transportation: so in Pohnpei, you walk (slowly) if you don't have a car; but if you do have a car, you drive it everywhere, including a few yards down the road. There are just a few rules of the road-a very few- to be aware of when traveling in Pohnpei.
When walking, walk on the left side of the road. I don't know why because drivers drive on the right and most cars are Japanese-made with the steering wheel on the right. FSM relects a curoius mixture of all the different countries which have previously occupied it.
If you find yourself on a bus (you're probably either a Pohnpeien schoolchild or a Peace Corps Volunteer because there are no public buses), it is wise to place yourself on an aisle towards the middle--or back if you like roller coasters. This is because if you do sit near a window, you are very likely to get whipped by branches as the bus hurtles along narrow, hilly roads. And if you sit on an aisle towards the back you can both avoid having to duck every few feet and enjoy watching your fellow volunteers' heads pop up and down with each smack of a branch from the numerous trees growing over the sides of the road.
Using Local Resources
While the dense jungle does sometimes limit road travel, it provides an abundance of material for immediate use. Forget your woven fan on a hot Sunday morning in an airless church? No problem; grab a dried leaf from the yard outside. Leaf fans come in a variety of sizes from 3" all the way up to 3' (the latter, however is a little unwieldy for church). Or, that beautiful blue sky that led you to think you could leave your umbrella at home today has suddenly turned gray and a downpour is imminent? Again, no problem; grab a 3' long banana tree leaf. It will keep you as dry as an umbrella, which admittedly isn't very. I recently learned in language training the many ways to discuss dry clothing . . .
Birthdays/Fundraisers
Birthday celebrations are a Western introduction into the Micronesian culture. There isn't even a word in Pohnpeien for the anniversary of one's birth. "Happy Birthday" is what is said and understood, even if the listener speaks no English.
Besides the universal party with lots of delicious food, Pohnpeiens have adapted another Western tradition to celebrate birthdays which I think is very creative: the Birthday Fundraiser. Everyone who wants to participate meets at one of the markets and many people bring items to contribute to the lots: a broom, a case of ramen, an assorted collection of local skirts, a live crab tied to a branch, banana tree saplings, yams, a canoe. These items are then distributed into random, but generally equal-value groups, and tickets are sold for each group, one at a time until some indeterminate point--presumably when the caller has decided enough money has been raised--a ticket is drawn, and well, you know how a raffle works. I got some practice with my Pohnpeien numbers--ehu-zero-waluh-riau-limau-siluh (1-0-8-2-5-3), and while we did not win a canoe, my host mother and I did walk away with a nice collection of colorful skirts!
Nothing Lasts
I would like to comment on the incredible transience of things in the jungle. Everything Pohnpeien is made with the understanding that it will soon be tossed aside to return to nature: palm frond woven baskets, thatched-roof houses, shell tools. No amount of Western ingenuity can save material things from being reclaimed bu the jungle humidity: cars rust, stop working, and become a new home for plant and animal life; humidity creeps into houses and paint peels, walls turn green; electronics are lucky to last a year in this, one of the wettest places on Earth. Micronesian culture is preserved only by word of mouth. Material possessions do not linger. If an anthropologist wished to specialize in Micronesian culture (which some do; I met one today!) he or she would find a dearth of physical evidence. Only the jungle lives on.
Final Note to Costumers: Micronesia not for the weak-hearted seamstress
I was so excited to find that my host mother loves to sew and has a sewing machine. And so I set out to make myself a local-style wardrobe. To my unending disappointment and constant chagrin, however, a local wardrobe means primarily polyester. In fact, I'd be hard-pressed to find a material with less than 60% poly anywhere on the island. You might well ask, "Why in such a hot and humid climate would the Pohnpeiens choose a fabric infamous for its lack of breathability?" The answer is this: it dries faster, and as mentioned previously, dry clothing is a must here. But that doesn't make the fact that the clothes I'm wearing are 75% not-fabric hurt me inside--and outside--any less. Sundays are even more fun: Pohnpeien women take out their Sunday best: sparkly poly trimmed with plastic beads! The type of things you might find in a box labeled "cheap glitz" in the CST costume shop. Beauty is clearly in the eye of the beholder.
Friday, September 18, 2009
The Micronesians Have It!
I have now been in FSM for just about two weeks, though it seems like it's been much longer because of all that I have learned being here! Micronesians have many rich cultures and histories across the four states and it is so exciting to be a part of it!
One of the local Peace Corps staff was training my Peace Corps class (M*76!) on behavior and cultural tradition: Pohnpeians have a tendency to throw trash to the side of the road when they are finished with it, and waste management is a major issue here in Pohnpei. On the surface, this looks like a bad habit, but it comes from the tradition of using natural materials to contain food, such as palm branch baskets--which are still used extensively, or coconut shells. These things when thrown out would simply biodegrade and nourish the soil, rather than polluting the land. Well, it is my opinion that the Micronesians have the right idea. It's just too bad that banana trees don't grow in Chicago--those leaves make excellent platters for family feasts.
Eating locally grown foods is also a major movement in FSM--with the introduction of conveniently canned, imported foods, many people have chosen this route as an easier way to put food on the table, but a diet of Spam and rice is not the most nutritious, so organizations are promoting the much healthier local diet of breadfruit, coconut, taro, yam, fish, and 15 different kinds of banana!
I would just like to put the challenge out to all to try one thing that will allow you to live a little more simply, save a tree, save a fish, love your home!
****
In other news, I received my permanent site placement: I will be in a mountain community on the main island of Pohnpei: no electricity, but indoor plumbing! My mailing address will be the one I've already given to you all, so please write! Love to all and stay tuned for more to come from Pohnpei . . .
One of the local Peace Corps staff was training my Peace Corps class (M*76!) on behavior and cultural tradition: Pohnpeians have a tendency to throw trash to the side of the road when they are finished with it, and waste management is a major issue here in Pohnpei. On the surface, this looks like a bad habit, but it comes from the tradition of using natural materials to contain food, such as palm branch baskets--which are still used extensively, or coconut shells. These things when thrown out would simply biodegrade and nourish the soil, rather than polluting the land. Well, it is my opinion that the Micronesians have the right idea. It's just too bad that banana trees don't grow in Chicago--those leaves make excellent platters for family feasts.
Eating locally grown foods is also a major movement in FSM--with the introduction of conveniently canned, imported foods, many people have chosen this route as an easier way to put food on the table, but a diet of Spam and rice is not the most nutritious, so organizations are promoting the much healthier local diet of breadfruit, coconut, taro, yam, fish, and 15 different kinds of banana!
I would just like to put the challenge out to all to try one thing that will allow you to live a little more simply, save a tree, save a fish, love your home!
****
In other news, I received my permanent site placement: I will be in a mountain community on the main island of Pohnpei: no electricity, but indoor plumbing! My mailing address will be the one I've already given to you all, so please write! Love to all and stay tuned for more to come from Pohnpei . . .
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Landed at Last!
Kaselelie! (Greetings in Pohnpeian)
After traveling from Chicago to L.A., L.A. to Honolulu, and Honolulu to Majuro, Kwajelein, and Kosrae, we finally landed on beautiful Pohnpei to a receiving line of beaming Peace Corps staff and current volunteers. Each of us received a marmar, or headdress of beautiful local flowers. Shortly after we arrived, we were blessed with a quick rain shower--a good omen in Pohnpei.
We spent our first evening exploring the main street of Kolonia, the largest town in FSM where you can find places like Wall Mart and open air storefronts, locally made appliqued skirts, and restaurants which serve a combination of local, American, and Japanese fare.
This morning I had a delicious breakfast of tuna omelette, then headed to the Peace Corps office where I was delighted to find from the local coordinators that a sewing club would be much appreciated wherever I am posted and that my theatre background will be very useful for teaching ESL! I have a lot to look forward to!
The remainder of our weekend included a few hours of training in culture, safety, and what to expect for the next few days and weeks and time to get to know one another (the volunteers and PC staff)--lots of volleyball, card games (cribbage!) and sitting around just "being" together. Monday morning (when all of the shops were again open after observing the day of rest), we all cleaned out the few shops in town of local skirts and stamps to write home! This afternoon we head to our training site, a rural community an hour outside of Kolonia. All the Peace Corps volunteers from the previous two years have said how beautiful this community is, so I cannot wait to see it!
After traveling from Chicago to L.A., L.A. to Honolulu, and Honolulu to Majuro, Kwajelein, and Kosrae, we finally landed on beautiful Pohnpei to a receiving line of beaming Peace Corps staff and current volunteers. Each of us received a marmar, or headdress of beautiful local flowers. Shortly after we arrived, we were blessed with a quick rain shower--a good omen in Pohnpei.
We spent our first evening exploring the main street of Kolonia, the largest town in FSM where you can find places like Wall Mart and open air storefronts, locally made appliqued skirts, and restaurants which serve a combination of local, American, and Japanese fare.
This morning I had a delicious breakfast of tuna omelette, then headed to the Peace Corps office where I was delighted to find from the local coordinators that a sewing club would be much appreciated wherever I am posted and that my theatre background will be very useful for teaching ESL! I have a lot to look forward to!
The remainder of our weekend included a few hours of training in culture, safety, and what to expect for the next few days and weeks and time to get to know one another (the volunteers and PC staff)--lots of volleyball, card games (cribbage!) and sitting around just "being" together. Monday morning (when all of the shops were again open after observing the day of rest), we all cleaned out the few shops in town of local skirts and stamps to write home! This afternoon we head to our training site, a rural community an hour outside of Kolonia. All the Peace Corps volunteers from the previous two years have said how beautiful this community is, so I cannot wait to see it!
Friday, August 28, 2009
My last week in America
I've finally opened my last show of the summer (Caffeine Theatre's Under Milk Wood at the DCA Storefront Theatre-- go and see it!) and am getting ready to depart September 2 for Pohnpei, Micronesia via L.A., Honolulu, Majuro, and Kwajalein (I don't know how to pronounce it, either). After a fantastic round of visitors to Chicago, I'm on a last "until we meet again" trip to Memphis, then will have four more days in Chicago and Naperville to pack up all my worldly possessions for a two-year trip to the other side of the world.
A lot of people ask me what brought me to my decision to join the Peace Corps--I've told this story to many of you, but for those of you who haven't heard it, here is the path I took to choosing Peace Corps service:
The summer after my sophomore year at Vanderbilt, I had the incredible opportunity to spend a month in London studying theatre. I saw several very incredible productions there (and some less than amazing ones, too) but one had such a profound effect on me that I started thinking almost immediately of joining the Peace Corps. This play was The Overwhelming, performed at the National Theatre of London and it took place in Rwanda at the very start of the 1994 genocide. The play was peopled with a variety of characters including Rwandans on both sides of the conflict, British ex-pats, and American vacationers. The representation of an intense hatred between two groups manifested in mass murder was horribly disturbing, but disturbing in a different way was the stereotyped representation of the ignorant and culturally insensitive American tourists.
The Peace Corps has three main objectives in its mission: to meet the need for trained men and women in countries served, to promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of people served, and to promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans. While I certainly hope to share my skills with the Micronesians in my community, I know that I will learn as much or more from them as I have to teach. It is the cultural exchange and dissipation of stereotypes that draws me most to the Peace Corps. From all the discussions I have had with many of you about Micronesia, its geography, and its culture, I know I am already delving into these objectives and I look forward to sharing much more with you here in this forum.
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